smoking Denon

How to fix Denon AVR-3300 audio glitches

Published: 8 April 2009 (last updated 11 June 2009)
Author: Janne "kuvaweopu" Ropponen


The Denon AVR-3300 A/V receiver, released in 1999, is still quite capable of powering a 5.1 Dolby Digital/DTS home theater system although it lacks some modern features such as HDMI connectors. The price of the device in 1999 was around the USD 1000 (or EUR 1000) mark and for that price you expected some decent quality audio. And this device delivered! I personally fell in love with the clean, precise and analytical sound of the amplifier after comparing it to several other A/V receivers of similar price (Sony and Harman-Kardon for example). Some people find the AVR-3300 cold or harsh but I found it to be an ideal companion to my B&W speakers.

However, right from the start Denon had some build quality problems with the AVR-3300. The two main issues with the unit were cooling problems and a malfunctioning DSP card. When I got my AVR-3300 it only worked for a few days before the DSP card failed. I had to wait for a replacement unit for several months before one was available in Finland as the manufacturer had serious supply problems at the time. The second unit worked fine for six months or so before its cooling fan started acting up and making whistling noises while trying to rotate. This problem was fixed under warranty in a local shop and after that it's been happy listening all the way... till 2008.

During 2008 the first signs of trouble were in the air as my AVR-3300 suddenly started to output very distorted sound in all the multiple speakers modes. This was "fixed" by powering the unit off for ten minutes or so (a simple standby off wasn't enough, it had to be completely powerless). The same thing started happening with increasing frequency from a couple of months apart to days. Finally in early 2009 the sound started cutting off completely in all modes after only hours or minutes of use. Now I really had to do something about it.

This article details my efforts to fix the AVR-3300 instead of throwing a perfectly good piece of hardware away. And isn't it more ecological (ooo, trendy) and economical (bad times, baaad times) to fix old instead of dispose and buy new. :-) I will try to give a step-by-step guide for any of you DIY people out there with the same problem.


After some googling I found out that the intermittent problems are indeed the result of a faulty DSP card and quite common among the AVR-3300 owners. This was very troubling as the DSP card (Denon part number 1U-3215) costs between USD 500-850 even if you can find it anymore. There's no sensible reason to pay way more than the current value of the whole device for a spare part. Some further information hunting led me to a discussion on where it was suggested that the amplifier can usually be repaired by resoldering one of the IC chips on the DSP card.

I opened my AVR-3300 and during troubleshooting found two issues. The first one was that the fan would never start turning no matter what the temperature inside was. Some quick measuring didn't reveal any immediate problem with the cooling fan as the fan itself seemed to work fine as did the two posistors used for temperature probing. I assume the fault lies within one of the five transistors that control the fan voltage depending on temperature and volume level.

Update 11 June 2009: Seems that the fan IS working, at least it is now. This is probably due to increased ambient summer temperatures.

The second problem was — surprise surprise — a cracked soldering on one of the DSP card's ICs or actually on the socket that holds the IC. It seems that due to bad design the socket is under constant stress from a combination of thermal stress, not enough solder used and the socket being under physical strain from holding the chip inside in place.

Fixing the damn thing

First of all, be careful when working with the insides of this or any other electronic device especially if you're doing debugging with power cord still attached! There are hazardous voltages just waiting for your finger and a real possibility of burning the rest of the hardware if you poke too liberally with the screwdriver. This is all pretty obvious of course but please refrain from opening the device if you don't have at least some idea of what you're doing. These instructions assume your AVR-3300 is actually suffering from a problem caused by the same exact fault that mine was. If it is not... sorry, I have no answers: Maybe you'll be better off using the services of an actual electrical repair technician (which I'm not).

Use antistatic precautions to prevent electrostatic discharges that can destroy the delicate microelectronics. Whatever you do, the risk is yours alone.

Step 1:

Disconnect all the cables and remove the covers. There are three screws on both sides and three at the back.

Step 2:

Familiarise yourself with the parts inside. The main parts are indicated in the following picture.
Denon AVR-3300 The insides of Denon AVR-3300.
It might be a good idea to clean away the dust that has been accumulating inside the unit during the long years.

Step 3:

Check if the audio dropping problem is the result of the same fault I had. Find IC403 on the DSP card and visually inspect whether the solder pads of the socket are ok or not. You can also try using some cold spray or gently pushing the socket down while the unit is on to see if the audio comes back. If you're convinced the fault is similar to mine, continue on to step 4.

Step 4:

Remove enough of the screws holding the backplate in place to bend it 1-2 cm (0.5-1 inch) backwards to aid in the removal of the DSP card. Or you can remove the whole backplate by removing all the screws (there are a total of 37 of them). Note: one of the screws (bright one instead of black) on my AVR-3300 was actually soldered to a capacitor inside the unit, namely to one of the 8 channel external in connectors. You'll have to desolder the capacitor leg before removing the screw!
back panel of Denon AVR-3300 You will need to remove all the screws (except the phono signal gnd screw) in this picture in order to bend the backpanel enough. The shiny screw is soldered to a capacitor inside the unit!

Step 5:

Remove the DSP card by pulling it straight up. It might be a bit hard to remove but it'll come out eventually. You'll want to remove the plastic card spacers first.
Denon AVR-3300 DSP card The DSP card.

Step 6:

Locate IC403 and open the socket cover by sliding it to the direction indicated by an arrow. Remove the cover and the IC and make a note of their orientation. Avoid touching any of the IC or socket pads with your greasy fingers. The cover might not be easy to slide but you'll get there. Also, if the IC doesn't pop right out you can pry it out with eg. a toothpick using the four small holes around the chip on the socket. You can skip this step if you want and do the soldering with the IC still in place.
IC403 socket IC403 socket. Resolder at least all cracked pads, preferably all the four corner pads (circled). If you look carefully you can see that the two corners on the right have fractured.

Step 7:

Keep some weight on the socket so that it stays in contact with the PCB and resolder at least the cracked corner pads. I resoldered all the corners just to be on the safe side. I used a little extra solder in order to secure the socket better than it originally was. However, make sure you don't use too much solder and cover the small holes on the sides of the socket where the socket cover's spikes come through. While you're at it, check that the tiny chip leads are soldered properly, but I wouldn't recommend you to try resoldering them unless you're experienced in small SMD soldering work and have the proper tools.

Step 8:

Gently clean the connecting foils of the socket and IC with isopropyl alcohol. Pop the IC back into the socket, check orientation and reattach the cover. Slide the cover closed. This was very tricky for me and I actually had to slightly file the upper edges of the socket cover before I was able to slide it back into place without using too much force. You can skip this step if you skipped Step 6.

Step 9:

Reconnect the DSP card and make sure it is seated properly. Reattach the plastic card spacers.

Step 10:

Secure the backplate. Remember to resolder the capacitor leg if you had to desolder it in step 3.

Step 11:

Reattach the covers and cables.

Step 12:

Turn the power on... and pray that it works. :-)
Denon glowing with happiness All better now! Eager to power home theater near you for another decade.

In a nutshell

Here's a quick recap to help in finding out if your Denon AVR-3300 A/V receiver has the same problem as mine had.

Possible symptoms (while the unit is working normally otherwise):

Probable cause: Testing methods: Fix:

Final words

The fix detailed in this article worked perfectly for me and I can once again enjoy the sweet sounds of the Denon AVR-3300 without frequent audio dropouts. If the fix works even for six months it was worth the effort. As for the fan... I didn't do anything about it as of yet. I'll keep an eye on it and if it still refuses to start when the warm summer temperatures are here I'll have to take a closer look. I have to note that the built-in thermal protection has never kicked in which means that either it is faulty too or there hasn't actually been enough heat to trigger it. I'm leaning on the latter as I very rarely listen to anything with extremely high volumes and the unit has plenty of ventilation space around it.

Update 11 June 2009: As mentioned earlier in this article, it now seems that the fan is actually working, at least for now. This is probably due to increased ambient summer temperatures.

Many of the troubleshooting methods in this article can be used to narrow down the fault of any electronic device — just use your common sense: If the troublesome device works fine when cold but starts acting up when warming up... cold spray is your best friend! Many electrical contact issues can be localised by simply physically wiggling things around. And a multimeter helps you find out if the components are operating at correct voltages.

Feel free to leave a comment at the end of this page or send your feedback via email to weopu at tux dot fi.


Clinton Koo
said on
26.04.2009 08:11
Hi Janne, Thanks for the article. I have the same problem on my AVR-3300 (1 corner was cracked). You have save me $$ in buying a new AVR. I am going to resolder all 4 corner. I do have another question. When I play DVD, my AVR-3300 will alway take audio input from the digital coaxial input. Do you know how I can switch to take input from one of the digital Optical inputs. I lost my manual for my AVR-3300. Thanks in advance.

Clinton Koo

Janne Ropponen
said on
26.04.2009 12:56
Hi Clinton,

I'm happy you found the article useful! You can change digital input settings from system setup (System setup button on the remote). You'll need to connect the receiver's monitor out to your TV to see the menus.

Denon has the manual for AVR-3300 on their website as a free download:

said on
13.06.2009 14:10
Hi Janne.

Thanks a ton for this very detailed article. I'm no electronics guru, but I know how to solder and I managed to fix my AVR 3300 today thanks to your article and the detailed photographs.

So once again, thanks a lot.

Janne Ropponen
said on
14.06.2009 11:53
Cheers Thierry, great I could help! I felt that if I could be of help to even one AVR-3300 owner struggling with the DSP glitch this article would be worth the time spent writing it. But two so far... fantastic!

Speaks a lot about the audio quality of the AVR-3300 that people are still using it after 10 years despite its problems and the rapid speed of development on the digital audio front.

Kevin Mccullough
said on
10.07.2009 20:56
Hey! thank you so much for the info. I hope it works. In my reciever there are not cracked corners, neither is applying pressure fixing the sound issues. I dont know if we have the same problem, but basically sound works from analog inputs, but not from digital. None of the optical or coax inputs produce sound (except garbled static and crackles) and I figured it had to be the DSP. Do you think there may be something else (i.e. with the PCB containing the optical inputs)????

Thank you so much

Kevin McCullough
said on
11.07.2009 01:10
Update to my previous post. I took apart and re-soldered the IC (it wasn't cracked or seperated in any way but I did this anyways) and this did not fix the problem. I am now searching the DSP for any other faults and cannot find any. I came to realize it is not my optical which is bad because I can be going through analog DVD input and the sound works perfect, but once I switch it to 2 channel dolby (through analog) it immediately cuts to static and crackles. Any other suggestions from your experiences of what could be wrong? Maybe my IC is just a bad chip I dont know...
Janne Ropponen
said on
11.07.2009 11:55
Hi Kevin!

The problem can be almost anything from a simple contact issue to a cracked trace on the circuit board (very hard to find) to a genuinely bad IC. In the last case there really isn't anything you can do. As it is the digital inputs that don't work correctly it is probable that problem lies somewhere on the DSP card or on the digital input card (as you've already figured out).

This is what I'd do:

With the power on and digital input selected (you're hearing static from the speakers) use a can of cold spray meant for electrical troubleshooting to find out if cooling any single component on the DSP or digital input card will affect the sound. You can also use something non-conductive (eg. a dry wooden stick or the handle of an electrically insulated screwdriver) to gently tap the various components and ICs. Find out if the sound changes. If it does, concentrate on that area and narrow down the affected component. Also, wiggle the whole DSP and digital input cards and see if that has any effect. If you see any electrolytic capacitors that are visibly swollen or leaking they can be the culprit.

I hope you can find the fault.


The mandatory warning: Be very careful when working with the insides of live devices and do not touch anything inside the unit with anything conductive! A good electrician's rule is to always keep your other hand behind your back when poking aroung live devices so you won't accidentally stick it where it shouldn't go. If you're even remotely unsure about diagnosing the device with the power cord attached, don't. Doing the wrong thing can kill you.

Marcel Blokland
said on
22.07.2009 11:58
Hi Janne,

Manny thanks for posting this article. I had exact the same problem! I followed the instructions and repaired my AVR 3300!

Marcel Blokland

Janne Ropponen
said on
23.07.2009 22:09
Marcel, I'm very glad to hear you fixed your 3300. I hope you get many more years of use out of your Denon.
jay moore
said on
18.08.2009 05:31
Amazing!!! exactly what was indicated!!!!
said on
18.08.2009 05:32
Thank you very much!
said on
28.08.2009 11:26
Thanks Janne for your very informative guide. My Denon AVR-3300 has shown both the noisy fan and DSP problems. Interestingly the fan noise seems to be gone now after many years - maybe the fan is totally broken now? The DSP problem has happened a few times (distorted sound when using onboard DACs) but seems to be OK for the moment.

What is the purpose of the fan? To cool the DSP card? To cool the power amp stage? Or to cool both? If the fan doesn't work anymore, what will happen? I would like to hear your thoughts. By the way, I think the AVR-3300 is a nice sounding unit and worth saving!

Janne Ropponen
said on
28.08.2009 12:48
John, the fan itself is very quiet when it's working right and should only turn if the internal temperature rises high enough. There's also some internal logic to control the speed of the fan depending on the sound output to the speakers: in quiet parts the fan speed is automatically reduced. The idea is that the fan should never be audible over the sound played by the device.

However, as you've already suffered from a noisy fan before, it is possible that the fan has failed completely. The only way to be sure would be to open the amplifier and test the fan. I wouldn't be too worried though because if the device gets too hot (with fan or not) it should simply shut down to protect itself. If that hasn't happened it should still be within safe operating temperatures.

The fan's main purpose seems to be to cool the amplifier stage: all the power ICs are in contact with a big tunnel-shaped heatsink through which air is blown with the aid of the fan. Some of the air sucked in goes past the DSP card but the card itself or the components on it don't seem to get too hot by themselves. One end of the DSP card (where the troublesome IC socket is located) is right next to the cooling fan and my theory is that the constant cooling and warming caused by the fan turning on and off causes enough thermal expansion to eventually brake the soldering on the socket. In other words, poor design.

said on
28.08.2009 13:58
Thanks Janne for answering my questions so thoroughly. Yes, poor design seems to be case. I believe that Denon abandoned fan cooling with their later models.

Another problem I have with my unit is that the on-screen display output to my TV is blurry with horizontal lines scrolling down. Would this problem be related to the DSP card, or is there a specific video card in the unit?

Janne Ropponen
said on
28.08.2009 16:15
Yes, Denon indeed dumped the fan in later models.

Video output problems can be caused by many things such as ground loops and bad cables. I personally only use the composite out for setup and even that very rarely. You can try pulling out all the other audio and video cables from the amplifier and your tv (as well as the aerial cable) and see if you still get the same problem. If it works connect the cables back one at a time and see which one causes the problem to reappear. I recall having similar distortions in the picture when my computer was connected to the amplifier as well as to my television. The problem was "fixed" by disconnecting the video cable between the computer and the tv. If you're using composite out try using s-video or component and vice versa. See if it makes any difference. Ground loops can be difficult to diagnose and fix.

Your video problem probably has little to do with the DSP card. The components responsible for video are located on three separate cards. Two of the cards (composite and s-video) are between the DSP card and the cooling tunnel and the third one (component) is the topmost board on the other side of the cooling tunnel. Simply put, the relevant video connectors on the back of the amplifier are directly connected to the cards in question.

said on
02.09.2009 09:13
Thanks Janne. I will experiment with using s-video or component output as suggested. At the moment I am not using the Denon for any video switching and like you I am only using the composite output for set-up - although even this is not pleasant given the blurry picture.
Ian - vk2him
said on
13.09.2009 06:18
Hi Janne,

Excellent and detailed information, many thanks for posting this :)

My trusty 3300 has suffered from this distorted sounds problem on and off for a few years and yesterday it started to do it permanently, even after powering off overnight. Although I haven't yet resorted to your instructions, I took the guess that I have a bad solder joint so I "dropped" my amp from a few inches to give it a good shake ... the result was the audio is now "fixed" ... I'll be getting out the trusty soldering iron when I have a free hour or two and solder those corners.
Cheers from Australia!!

said on
23.09.2009 04:14
Awesome page. Repaired mine in minutes. Was getting ready to go buy a new one. Nine years wasn't bad. Thanks. Wow, and to think, folks paid $500 - $800 for replacement boards. Damn.
said on
04.10.2009 00:57
I picked up a 3300 on ebay thinking I'd be getting some spare parts to repair mine and it doesn't have a socket for IC403. It looks like someone has tried soldering a corner leg but failed and bare copper is showing like it's been flipped over. Are all of these supposed to have a socket? Also the guy selling the 3300 said the fan came on while there but it has yet to come on here. How hot does the heat sink get before it comes on, almost hot enough to burn your fingers? Thanks for the great tut.
Esa Heikkinen
said on
05.10.2009 22:08
I found this page when seeking information about the fan fix. Nice to know about the audio issues and possible fix for these, however I have never got any problems with DSP. Some poor soldering with capacitors caused 100 Hz mains hum some years ago. That's the only fault alomg with fan. I have had the AVR3300 about ten years for now.

The whining sound is caused by the fan motor. The design of the fan control circuit is poor because it doesn't include proper starter circuit to generate a pulse which kicks the fan on. So the voltage in fan terminal raises slowly. Many of these type of fans whine when they are trying to start but there's not enough volts. Some of the fans rotate their blades back and forth, making a clicking sound.

I'm pretty sure that easy solution for the fan noise could be to replace the fan with some other model. It looks like standard 80x80 mm. fan, just the same which could be found in computers. But I'm not sure if it has 12V motor. Currently I have no idea which fan would be good here. Possible some PAPST model could be the one which starts properly even with low voltages without whining. Only way to find one is to test different fans with adjustable power supply and see how they act with low voltages. It also would be nice to know how they fix that fan problem in the warranty repair...

Dan: I just check the IC403 from the service manual and it's the flash memory holding the DSP software. So there MUST be a socket for it, otherwise it's quite hard to update the DSP software. That's infact also a kind of poor design: there's no possibility for ISP (In Circuit Programming) so you have to take the chip out for any updates - just like EPROMS in the 80's hardware...

Janne Ropponen
said on
09.10.2009 20:16
Esa: A nice breakdown of the fan issue, you're absolutely correct. My unit's fan problem was fixed by simply replacing the fan with a new (generic) one under warranty. Nothing else was done to it. The fan is a 80x80 mm 24 volt model. I agree that some Pabst 24 V model would be a good replacement.

Dan: Yes, there should be socket for IC403 -- or at least there has been one originally. Also, the heat sink gets REALLY hot before the fan even considers starting. You will burn your fingers. :-)

Thanks for your kind and informative comments everyone.

Jay G
said on
11.11.2009 23:01
Janne -

I see here that you've been helping a few other AVR-3300 users troubleshoot. Maybe you can help me as well. I'm unaware if the problem I'm having is the same but, for whatever reason, when I connect analog speakers to the front pre outs I get static through them, even without a source connected. This doesn't happen if I move the same speakers previously in the front pre outs to the surround pre outs (either A or B). I can't seem to get any sound across either channel and I'm currently in input VCR.2/V.Aux. Might this DSP fix help me at all? Any suggestions? Thanks for any information you can provide.

Janne Ropponen
said on
26.11.2009 22:05
Jay, I apologise for taking so long to answer. If I understand you correctly you are connecting speakers straight to the pre-outs without an amplifier: that won't work unless you have active speakers. The pre-outs are meant to be used as input to an amplifier which in turn drives the speakers. Speakers should only be connected to the speaker terminals.
Mike R
said on
08.12.2009 22:06
Janne -

You totally fixed my intermittent crackles and cutting out when hot!

I couldn't see any sign of cracked solder on the pads, but added some fresh anyway. Maybe removing and re-fitting the card actually helped, but either way you've given my beloved amp a stay of execution and saved me a bundle of cash...

Many many thanks!

Eric B
said on
31.12.2009 22:55

Great job on the troubleshooting.

During my first attempt to repair I resoldered the socket corners as described but did not clean the DSP and socket contacts. This did not solve the problem.

After re-reading this thread I made a second attempt to repair, this time only removing the DSP and thoroughly cleaning all contacts with electrical parts cleaner. This seems to have solved the problem and the unit has been working flawlessly for about three weeks now.

My suspicion is that the IC and socket contacts had oxidized; once properly cleaned the unit began working again.

Thanks again and hope this helps other AVR-3300 users!

Erik W.
said on
06.01.2010 20:21
Thanks so musc for a detailed and accurate tut. I bought the AVR3300 off the gray market and had no problems (except the fan, like everyone else it seems) until late 09. The repairman I gave it to gave up when DENON told him the card was NLA (No Longer Available?). The 2 corners nearest the end where the ID is labeled are cracked on mine and I am handy with a soldering iron so will have this resoldered today. Again, thanks for such clear diag and instructions.
Janne Ropponen
said on
08.01.2010 18:30
Mike R: Great! I never realised so many people would still be using the AVR-3300 and have the same problems I did. Judging by the comments this DSP problem really is widespread.

Eric B: I'm delighted to hear you managed to fix your AVR-3300. It seems that the contacts between the IC and the socket are as much a part of the problem as the socket soldering. Recently I had to open my own AVR-3300 again as I started to experience the same old problems. I cleaned the IC contacts and very carefully bent them so that they apply more pressure against the socket and everything was fixed once more.

Erik W: Good luck and I hope you'll get yours fixed. Yes, as far as I can tell the DSP card is no longer available from Denon. We are on our own.

said on
09.01.2010 07:40
I've had problems with my AVR-3300 was a long time now. The unit sat in the corner for ages. I pulled it out after finding your page - and tapping on the IC makes the sound come on. Wow - yippee. Gonna polish the unit back up and put it back on the rack. Unfortunetly I upgraded to a new amp a while back with all the latest gadgets. But glad to have the old unit come back to life.
Wonderful write-up. And thank you again.
said on
15.01.2010 06:08
Heh. I have an AVR 3300 that outputs constant volume "sputtering" sound as long as master volume is not "---" (the sputter volume does not change with master volume, stays the same - sounds as if a fan blade is hitting a piece of paper, for example, but the sound comes from speakers really). I had this problem long time ago, when I just got it. Had it sent back to Denon (service centre) and they asked me for permission to "solder a ROM chip directly to the board" (take the socket out). I am guessing they spoke of the same chip.

Now the problem is back... out of warranty, of course. Will try what you described here.

said on
15.01.2010 06:10
Forgot to mention... sputtering *ONLY* happens with *DIGITAL* *INPUTS*. With analog inputs, direct drive *OR NOT*, there is no sputtering...
Janne Ropponen
said on
15.01.2010 23:59
Ken, wonderful to hear that yet another AVR-3300 is back in action!

Aleks, your problem sounds like it could very well be the exact same problem described on this article. I've been considering soldering the chip directly to the DSP card myself. It is very interesting to hear that the service people at Denon themselves have fixed the problem by removing the socket.

said on
17.01.2010 07:08
Confirmed the problem (didn't technically fix it yet). Pushing down on the DSP board eliminates the problem for some time (it comes back). Have to find more time do to this right when my wife and kids don't need either me or the amp ...

Thanks for a great post!

said on
17.01.2010 20:41
Hi Janne

Your help and clear instructions have helped yet another Denon user. I have had my AVR-3300 for 8 years now and have had the DSP problem before. The first time I got the DSP problem fixed by the Denon technician whom I brought the unit from, but when the problem came back a few years ago, I had to resort simply playing music and DVD in "Direct" or "Stereo" mode as they for some reason did not get affected by the scrambled signal.

After reading your instructions, I attempted to fix the problem myself and I seemed to have succeeded. It is at least playing perfectly right now.

Regarding the fan issues you mention, I can report that my fan starts as soon as I turn on the receiver. The fan is somewhat noticeable when standing close to the receiver and the music is not playing too loud. If I wanted to replace the fan can I simply buy a 80 x 80 mm 24 VDC computer fan? Please advice.

Thank you so much for helping me fix my sound problem.

Janne Ropponen
said on
18.01.2010 00:55
Henrik, yes, you can probably use just about any 24 VDC 80x80 fan, but I'd suggest using one that works well on lower than nominal voltages, too (eg. Pabst). Keep in mind that fans used in computers are usually 12 VDC and thus not suitable for a straight replacement.

Interesting that your fan starts right away. On my unit the fan only starts when the amplifier gets VERY hot and has worked that way from the very beginning, I believe. I'm not sure which is the correct behaviour but the extra cooling effect you get from the fan being always on is definitely a good thing as long as the noise isn't too noticeable.

Marcus Gustafsson
said on
13.02.2010 17:46
This is great!

Thanks for the description Janne.

Short story: This description helped me fix my receiver.

Long story: For a while I noticed that when watching TV (analogue stereo in with DPL) I only have center and left channel but sometimes all channels toggle on and off with some noise during the switch. And also I had the wining fan.

Started looking into replacements but then one night I found this page and decided this is worth trying so I bought electronics cleaner and freeze spray and started off. My socket seemed soldered ok maybe one corner, anyway soldered all corners anyway but did not manage to remove the EEPROM and clean it.

Greased the fan a bit and put everything together, still no right channel on TV. Tested some more and found all analogue inputs showed the same symptom so now the plan was to open the receiver again (this time using an electric screwdriver) and start over again.

Looked at the DSP board, no bad electrolytic capacitors, no burnt components. So it was time to hit the socket again, this time with some more effort and finally I was able to drench it in electronics cleaner. Now getting it back was even harder but I managed that too.

Tested and it all worked, now I'm just waiting to see if I managed to stop the wining fan. If not I'll replace it (found 2 24V 80mm fans in my electronics junk box), I just have to struggle with removing the card (EXT in) besides the DSP card but it is mounted both in the bottom and the front.

Anyway, once again many thanks for the description.

Best regards

said on
23.02.2010 16:45
Your problem was my problem. I found that the socket was damaged by previous 'hack' techs trying to re-solder the corners, and they ended up breaking the two corners so the cover had no support and was always popping up. I just removed the entire socket, cleaned the pads and soldered directly the flash chip. I also took the opportunity to completely disassemble the other boards and I found numerous cracked solder connections on the white inter card connections. After all that work, I now have a working Home Theatre AVR-3300 and for free as this was given to me.
said on
16.05.2010 07:58
Geert said on 5/15/2010

Bought this AVR-3300 on CL for $30 USD with remote. Your instructions help me fix it. Very comprehensive and the photos really helped. My unit would only play from the CD input/ stereo mode with static sound and could not control the volume. Once I switched to another sound mode, lost all sound. Removed the DSP chip I noticed a residue on the socket. Used a toothbrush and some alcohol and lightly cleaned the connectors. Reinstalled all the parts. WOW great sound! Using some MB Quart 2 ways speakers that are 12yrs old. Amazing how well this receiver sounds when it's working.

Thanks again for a great article. Just saved another Denon going to the recycler.


said on
30.05.2010 01:57
I just wanted to say that I too was able to use your directions to fix my AVR-3300. The fix was not immediate though, I had to re-solder twice and cleaned every inch of the DSP board with isopropyl before the distortion stopped. Even then, it was not 100% clean sounding when I hooked it back up, but after resetting the proc. and letting it sit on for about 10 minutes it now sounds fine. My guess is that the IC needed to heat up a bit to really seat the connection (since metal expands when heated...). Either way, hopefully this will be a permanent fix.

:D Cheers!

said on
30.05.2010 23:28
Many thanks for keeping this thread going...

The inquiring mind (the Engineer in me) wants to know how simply re-soldering the socket in four encoring corners solved so may of these related problems...(?)

My nephew gave-up on his 3300 Denon because of zero audio signal output so I wonder how this fix actually works...



Janne Ropponen
said on
01.06.2010 09:44
Hi Jascha! The real problem is bad contacts between the chip and its socket. The socket warps a little bit because of temperature variations etc. and causes intermittent contact which manifests itself as distorted audio. Soldering the socket corners prevents - or at least reduces - the physical movement between the chip and the socket and thus "fixes" the problem.

The best fix would be to just remove the socket and solder the chip directly on the dsp card as Steve said he's done. This will require a bit more than basic soldering skills though.

said on
06.06.2010 23:37
I stumbled over this article and wow, it hits right on the spot. I am an electronic dummy, but this helpful is so clear and down to earth that even a caveman can understand. My AVR-3300 has a problem of intermittenly losing the center channel. Just by tapping gently the channel comes back.

I followed the pictures and remove the DSP board. I vacummed the dirt inside, use my finger to push down the DSP chip while keeping myself properly grounded.

I did not even do any resoldering because of my poor eyesight and poor skill, I could not tell whether there was any loose weld or not.

But just by snapping back the board tightly after pushing down the chip onto its sockets, reassemble and turn the system back on and voila, everything works like a champ. The center channel stays on for half a day already and I have not lost the center channel since. Hopefully, it will continue to work for months, hopefully years, but if it fails again, at least I know what can be done to it.

THanks so much for unselfishly posting this experince on the web.

kyle c
said on
20.06.2010 04:06
Hey i brought this amp in early 2007 as i have always loved denons work and the sound on this amazing piece of equipment was spot on with a pair of old MS20i pearl editions well cut a long story short i swapped it for a marants (wrong choice there i tell ya) because when i got it bk it had the problem he never told me and he buggerd the remote well the remote i dne it looked like it had been smacked after resoldering about 12-14 tracks it worked(remote sorted) the amp on the other hand nightmare sat in the cupboard for about 2 months untill i came across this i dne everything you said and wheyy the amp worked now this has been fixed im bk to using it in my setup and now i have fixed it the fool wants it back i think i will keep it until it seriously buggers up but i also have the problem its gettin pretty damn hot and the fan dnt seem to come on i might just find a way on the fan control board to perminantly have it on or maybe find a heat sensor which will come on at a lower temperature anyways mate many thanks for the advice worked a treat LOVELY JOB BONUS!!!!!
said on
27.07.2010 04:42

Another "thank you" for an extremely helpful article. I just completed the fix on my Denon 3300, with COMPLETE SUCCESS!! And now I know what to do to keep it humming if it happens again!

I join with all the other testimonials in sincere appreciation for taking the time & effort to provide such a detailed and simple description of the steps involved in making this repair.

I hope to keep this thing going until it becomes an antique!!

said on
20.08.2010 06:37
Hey all.

I sent my Avr3300 into Denon about 1.5 or 2 years ago to get fixed. It had an audio issue just like you mentioned. I called Denon and was affraid it would cost alot to get fixed. The guy there told me it might be as low as $55. All the way upto $350.

I was hoping it wouldn't be the later! I was hoping it wouldn't be over $150. When the rep called me back and said it would cost $55. I was so Happy! The total cost with shipping too & from was under $80!

But now Im pissed! I read this and turns out I couldve fixed it myself!!! Dang it.


I took a lid to a shoe box and cut a hole in the middle and put in a PC fan and Sat it ontop of the Aluminum heat sink atop the black cover.
The aluminum heat sink NEVER GETS HOT after adding this.
Im going to change out the Caps soon to some Jenson Caps or soemthing higher end.

Anyways great right up!

Has anyone ever replaced the DSP With something else?

Email me at
if you've hacked or did any DIY Upgrades

said on
09.09.2010 03:56

I have had my denon avr 3300 for about tens years(as soon as it was available) trouble free. Well, until a couple days ago when I lost all audio. Within about ten minutes of searching I found your fix. Mine only had one corner that appeared cracked. I soldered just that corner as I am not very comfortable soldering and went with the minimum. Perfect once again in less than an hour. You have helped so many people now including myself. It is very kind of you to give this info for free.

Thanks again

said on
12.09.2010 21:07
Update - problem came back

This time I soldered all four corners and good for couple days now. No point short cutting or the problem will be back sooner or later.

said on
23.09.2010 16:50
Thanks! I have a different Denon with a different problem, but just knowing how to get the DSP card in/out was a big help!
said on
16.10.2010 15:18

I simply love this amp. But the lost movie (Iron Man 2) was too much. Now I resoldered the socket and all is fine. Now I am testing the fan. I have never heard or seen it work. The amp is really getting hot. Maybe I will just go and put in a 240V~ type and hook it up to the mains directly.

Thanks a lot mate. This amp is staying.


said on
29.11.2010 02:22
I had a similar problem with my Denon AVR-2805. With your pictures and explanation, I was able to locate the DSP board (on the far right on the 2805), removed it, added some solder to the orange circled areas, put it back in then I had sound again. Thanks for the tip.
said on
12.12.2010 01:26
My Denon Avr-3300 doesn't power up at all. No display no clicks, nothing. I bought it at a resale shop inexpensively and thought I could likely find an issue with it and fix it easily. I don't have a schematic, but am pretty verse at electronics. so i guess I have to start with the on/off switch. Is it a simple spst switch or is it a contact only signal generating switch that triggers everything else? does any one know where a schematic is available? Is the no power a common problem with this unit? Thanks in advance.
Janne Ropponen
said on
13.12.2010 20:12
Thanks everyone for your comments. It's almost always a good idea to thoroughly but carefully clean the contacts of the DSP chip and its socket before soldering.

I've had to replace some electrolytic capacitors on the regulator board. Increasingly annoying humming noises from the amp led me to find some cracked soldering with several caps (Esa Heikkinen commented earlier having had the same problem). I replaced the caps with new ones as their capacitance was only half of what it should have been. And once again I have a working amp.

That said, I'm seriously thinking of abandoning this amp as it seems to require more and more fixing just to keep it going. And I'm pretty sure that the sound quality has deteriorated significantly over time: my AVR-3300 lacks the oomph and distinction it used to have. Probably a lot of components have just started to slip from the perfect operating values (especially the capacitors). It just might be too much work to troubleshoot and fix this one.


rescom: Surely you've checked if the fuses are ok. The power switch itself is a simple switch in my AVR-3300. However, it is a EUROPEAN model and there are many differences in the power section of the amp between different regions so don't count for that to be true for others. There's also a relay switch in the power unit you might want to check (I've had to fix broken relays in other Denon amps).

I got my service manual for the AVR-3300 here (not free, unfortunately): Complete with schematics, parts lists etc, it has been very useful when debugging problems with the 3300.

said on
14.12.2010 00:25
I'm going to short over the switch since it doesn't feel like it's clicking on. It's entirely silent. if that's not it, I will get a schematic and trace down power from top of circuit board. I really don't want to diassemblethe entire unit to trace down the printed circuits on the bottom of the board, only to find that it's something very simple.
Thanks and I'll let you know.
Wes (rescom)
said on
13.01.2011 00:50

Thank you, thank you, thank you. My wife thinks I am a hero!

My experience with this fix... Cleaning chip contacts worked for a few months, then the bad digital sound came back. So I soldered the chip holder (no visible cracks), cleaned the contacts, and bent the pins a tiny bit. No change. Then I started bumping parts, listening for a change. The third component I "touched" was a larger black capacitor opposite the fan. Garbled audio went away! I did no more investigation.

Janne, please let us know what AV Receiver you switch to so that all of us can move to it as well. That way in 10 years when the new one dies we can all reunite here. I am only half joking.

said on
10.02.2011 16:46
this has been of great help to me.
thank you a million times
said on
20.02.2011 19:25
I had the same problem, but before the reading of this excellent topic i try to rebuild the board (DSP) with hot air gun .
After that the amplifier want start at all (stays at flashing standby) .
I thing i have destroy something with high temperature and probably the IC403 .

You know if i can find it on the market ?
And if yes is it gone be written as the specific chip (Tc58Fvt800Ft-12) is cmos flash memory ?

Thanks for everything till now

Janne Ropponen
said on
22.02.2011 21:45
George, you can probably find a compatible flash chip on the market, but you'd not only need a way to reprogram it (with a flashing device) but also the Denon DSP firmware. Probably not worth the effort.
said on
22.02.2011 22:52
I have send an email to those two shops and they told me that they have the eprom as they sold it from Denon (ready for use).

The point is if i change it is gone work or the problem is somewere else after the heat rebuild i made ? :(
Its a risk .
If i knew where i am gone find the hole DSP card in good price, definitely its what i was gone do.
You have any option on this ?


Janne Ropponen
said on
24.02.2011 14:44

Well, of course there's no guarantee that changing the chip will work. Usually the ICs themselves are pretty robust. The DSP cards haven't been available as spare parts for years though with luck you might find a NOS part somewhere or a used DSP card from someone else's AVR3000. The card used to be at the pricier side of $500 (USD).

said on
02.03.2011 17:59
My unit seems to lose 1 main front intermittently. If I use a finger to lift the front right corner, most of the time it comes back instantly, in the meanwhile all other output work OK, i,e, the other main front, SR, SL and SW.

Also, right after power on, if I turn to 5.1 Prologic mode, it hisses for a long time, perhaps 10 mins or more and then slowly disappears. But if I turn to 2 channel stereo or Direct mode, the hissing does not occur.

Any idea where and what I should do ?

Janne Ropponen
said on
04.03.2011 07:43
Simbatran, both problems you describe are probably due do bad contacts or broken soldering somewhere. The hissing might be caused by broken soldering of the regulator board capacitors -- or the capacitors themselves are faulty. I've had the same issue with my unit.
said on
16.03.2011 18:46
Thanks for an extremly accurate faultdescription and easy fix for this problem, it worked for me:)
But, I seem to still have some hum in the speakers and its does not seem to have anything with the DSP to do, I think? I have tried to remove the DSP card and the hum is still there. Also tried blowing cold dust remover to cool the chip down but it doesnt have any effect on the humming.
I havent got any oscilloscop so I cannot determine where the hum has its origin, but if there is any out there who has the same problem and any fix for it, I would be forever greatful:)

Thx in advance

said on
22.03.2011 02:22
hi--i too started experiencing the same problem with my beloved 3300 a few years ago. it only happened very occasionally and always fixed itself "miraculously"--i used to disconnect and reconnect all the speaker cables and liked to imagine that was fixing the problem. i never looked into it too much because i love the receiver and didn't want to have a tech tell me to replace it (or pay giant amounts of money to fix it).

anyway, the problem occurred three times in the last two weeks, which is way more frequent than ever before, and so i decided to finally google and see what the wisdom of the net had to offer. i was very pleased to discover that it wasn't a problem only i had and that there was such a detailed diagnostic/repair guide available. alas, i am not handy with electrical repair and don't have a soldering iron (a good thing too).

however, i did try the simple "fix" suggested in the comments above: i raised the back of the receiver a few inches off the ground and "dropped" it a couple of times. sure enough, it fixed it right away! i guess this is confirmation that there is a loose connection in there. now to see if i can find a friend who is handy with a soldering iron...

said on
14.04.2011 14:57
Janne, I have copy of the factory service manual for the 3300 if you (or anyone else) want it.
Tim Confused too...
said on
19.04.2011 22:30
HI... MY DENON 3300 has lost total sound in all modes even FM stereo..Scott a copy of the service manual would be Great...thanks in advance. I tried flexing the DSP card and reseeded IC403 but not a trace of sound.My question as I am only using my 3300 for cds in analog cd mode would the DSP card still come into play confused...?
said on
23.04.2011 01:57
Hi Janne, Gave it another shot found in test tone mode pushing on the front lower portion of IC403 I could get audio from my speakers until I switched modes or powered down, then it required another push on the chip and audio was back. I will do you mod on the socket as well as cleaning.. Thank You for taking the time to write this Great Service procedure...
Tim Update
said on
24.04.2011 15:45
HI Janne, Rrmoved my DSP brd yesterday and yes found with the chip out of the socket placing moderate pressure on the socket caused the top rear corner to lift off the pad.Resodered all 4 corners cleaned the socket pin reassembled and ALL mode working Great after letting it play all night througth. Just 3 helpful notes to your readers ,my unit did not have the silver GND screw on the packplane, all were black? Also when removing the DSP Brd mine would catch on the the black RCA jack sockets on the smaller brd to its left so I inserted a paper spacer to aid in removing the Brd. Lastly one of my 2 AVR 3300 is 12 yrs old and never burped its mounted in a cabnet and has 1 115 muffin fan (Just pulling air through the cabnet) which is pluged into AC switched on my AVR which I left in after removing my old Carver 2 channel....AGAIN Janne THANKS FOR YOUR GREAT SERVICE PROCEDURE,YOU HAVE MADE MY DAY!
Janne Ropponen
said on
04.05.2011 18:37
Hi Tim, Scott, arnab and Confused! :-)

I'm so glad to hear my little guide is still helpful to people!

A lot of the good old 3300s seem to suffer from problems related to broken soldering by now. Most likely places are the dsp and regulator boards. Of course any issues with a unit this old can just as well be a result of broken electronic components.

Tim, I'm not surprised your unit doesn't have the ground screw. There are obviously different revisions of the hardware and some late fixes can made on the manufacturing line which will be incorporated into the overall design later. The ground screw in my unit is there probably to fix some issue that didn't get caught before manufacturing started. Or maybe it only applies to the European models - who knows.

said on
26.05.2011 20:46
Hi Janne!

Thank you SO MUCH for this guide. I have an AVR-3300 purchased new about a decade ago. Somewhere around 2 years ago, the unit just died, was working fine one day, and then just quit, no audio output in any mode, including the test tone. I poked at it then, but didn't have the time and simply swapped it out with an older unit and left it to look at 'later'.

Well, I was cleaning up my office today and decided to finally do something about this HEAVY doorstop that had been sitting around for so long! I opened up the case and began to probe around, I did not find anything on cursory inspection, after trying several items and taking measurements with my meter, nothing seemed to be the problem, the transformer seemed good, the power transistors all checked out... so I began to search the internet and found your post!

I figured that your fix, which had seemed to work so well for others who posted here in the comments, might work for me as well, and I had nothing to lose, so I removed the plethora of back panel screws, removed the board, and used my Weller to re-solder the corners of the socket. Note that no cracking was visible, even under a 8x loupe and the socket did not appear to lift off with pressure applied.

Upon re-assembly, I hooked up a test signal and was nearly blown away when I had OUTPUT AGAIN! I am so happy that my $1000 purchase can once again fill the hall with sweet sounds!

Thank you once more for taking the time to post this information, I'm afraid without your page here, this AVR-3300 might have been sent off as scrap! 2 years later and this info is still saving lives!

said on
07.06.2011 20:39
Dear Janne,
You can enjoy yet another revived AVR-3300!
I mourned for over two year now because of the distorted metallic sound I started getting out of my receiver 2years ago. It all started with the above mentioned infrequent distortions, coming back more and more frequently, until the receiver was very ill constantly.
Since a few years, I'm running an XBOX360 as extender against my Windows Mediacenter, so, I could fall back to the lousy sound of the HD TV. Recently, I wanted to enjoy once more Milla Jovovich' red hair when looking down at the city... but I couldn't bear mistreating the Diva's song through my lousy TV set boxes anymore... but not having my receiver's pure sound was a torture ...
So yes, your crystal clear article of 2009 did its job again! (I think the count is at 15 now ?)
The comments of the other people made me extra careful, hope someone finds some use in my comments one day:
- Think twice before you get your old solder iron from the box in the attic if you're over 40. Even with a 500 Watt lamp, a magnifying glass, my wife's reading glasses and no coffee, it is a very tricky job. The pictures above make it crystal clear, but you'll be surprised how small the socket pads are...
- When you remove the lid of IC403, you'll see that the tiny lid extensions hook in the socket, and slide back when you close the lid. Try it out after step 6, without IC403 in place to understand. I had to suck back solder from the tiny sliding holes in the socket. To be sure the sliding holes remain free, use a needle, or put a toothpick in the hole to make sure it doesn't fill with solder. (My AVR-3300 had the same bottom right pad's solder cracked exactly as in the picture)
- Don't close your AVR-3300 just yet. After I've closed the hood and installed all screws and cables, it was still producing strange sound... Somewhere higher, Janne suggests to tap on other sockets, capacitors and the like; do that to the power amp transistors as well; mounted on the cooling block. After gently hitting them with an isolated screwdriver, the crackling sound in my 5 digital channels dissappeared. I simply couldn't reproduce the illness of my AVR-3300 anymore, by hitting anywhere/elsewhere, and decided to close my receiver. So do not to despair if the tedous soldering isn't giving you the desired result.
My conclusion is that the AVR-3300's want to stay around for a few years, and deserves the careful attention you want to give them if you’ve read until here.
Thanks all!
said on
10.06.2011 10:24

I've got a DENON AVR-1508 which is in thousand and one parts at the moment due to visiting this site :D Okay, maybe the problems that the receiver gave to me had something to do with it...Nuff said.

My problem or should I say "DENON's" problem is that it might work only for 1-30 min without any conflicts. However, after that it will be outputting distorted sound and eventually loud and looong BEEP sound which ends to complete silence. Any ideas?

I didn't realise to try headphones before I took it apart which could have helped me to get closer to the problem. I also don't have any clue where the problem lies but regarding to Google there's a great possibility that the receiver has a cold solder joint somewhere, but where?

Otherwise the device is working properly.

said on
12.06.2011 20:04
Hi Janne!
Another avr 3300 revived thanks to you and your article.
I'm from Italy.
Thanks again.
said on
03.07.2011 14:53
Hi, Do you have any idea of Denon AVR 785 receiver.First my set was in protection mode after that i change all capaciters in power section.Now set is on condition, all functions are working without sound.There is no sound at all.
Before i replaced dsp board, because of some IC's burnt in this section and Cost of the board very high. After removed this board i heard some sound in high volume +18. after that no sound. This DSP board including Optical 1,2,3 input & one output.
Kevin Butler
said on
04.07.2011 16:38
Thanks for all the support on this web page. I think my problem is in the fan. It does not turn on even at 90 - 95 degrees F. I'd like to replace it.
Can someone provide the full spec of the recommended 24 volt papst fan mentioned by Janne Ropponen on 18.01.2010 00:55 or just give me a model number?


Rick Santina
said on
06.08.2011 09:48
Mark up yet another AVR-3300 saved! Many thanks to you and all the posters. I have some additional information. I tried the reflowing the socket - failed. Read all the words - ah, CLEAN the chip and socket - failed. Cleaned again with alcohol and toothbrush, bent pins, added a couple of layers of Post-It(r) notes under the socket cover to increase tension and started reflowing cold solder joints on the conectors - partial success! Analog inputs worked but Optical (Digital) still sounded garbled. All those inputs are on one board and 5 of the 6 connections on the edge connector had cold / cracked solder joints. I pulled ALL the cards and the motherboard out of the bottom of the unit and reflowed EVERY connector. Many of the connections near the middle of the motherboard were cold and when many were heated they "popped" indicating a trapped air pocket that never correctly flowed. I suspect there was some level of flux contaminiation in the original process resulting in many cold solder joints. I also found evidence of previous manual rework on the S-video input card connections. This time, all the connections worked and the amp seemed quieter.

I would advise all readers to spend the extra time and reflow all the connections on the white sockets. It will take about 90 minutes longer but I had my unit in and out of the rack four times before I got it all working.

Many thanks to all who have contributed to this post.

P.S. Rescom - the power switch only toggles the relays - it makes no noise on its own and should not be shorted.

P.P.S. Kevin M. - Check the digital input board if analog work but digital don't.

Janne Ropponen
said on
20.08.2011 20:09
Hi and thanks to everyone who posted a comment during the summer! My apologies for not answering sooner but I've been quite busy (yeah, such a lame excuse). I'm really flattered by the fact that so many people are still finding this article useful.

Bart and Rick Santina wrote very useful tips, be sure to read them if you have trouble with your AVR-3300.

To people asking for advice on models other than the 3300: I'm sorry but I can't really help you in any other way than asking you to follow the basic troubleshooting path. That is, isolate the problem to a certain section of the device and then figure out which component and/or connection is the root cause. A service manual will be a great help as well as basic understanding of electrical components. That said, in my experience the most likely causes of failure of any electrical device are either a) a bad (electrolytic) capacitor or b) a broken trace/connector/soldering. The former you can usually recognize by physical swelling of the component. The latter takes some more effort in most cases -- physical movement of the components and cold spray are your friends as I have mentioned before. If the cause of your problem is something else then things get trickier.

Kevin Butler: The Denon service manual only states a fan with the specs "80x80 mm 24V". I'd use some fan from the 25mm thick 8414N-series:

Bill Smith
said on
21.08.2011 04:02

My sound started crackling and randomly going out earlier this year. I found your comments on a possible repair and have spent several months trying to decide if I could do it. Well, you'll be happy to know I performed the soldering on all four corners, put everything back together and all is well. Very excited as this unit has exceptional sound. I know it doesn't have HDMI but the optical connections are pretty good. Your fix saved me big bucks!! Thanks again!!
Bill Smith
Denton Tx

said on
04.10.2011 20:36
Thanks a bunch! Exactly what the problem was. Easy fix, the Denon is back in the game!
said on
28.10.2011 18:39
I posted back in 2010 about my AVR-3300 being sent in to DENON for repair...
for awhile the 3300 would loose audio again and stop in the Left Channel and loose significant power in the center channel... all other speakers sounded fine...

After putting a powered fan like whats inside the 3300 ontop of the receiver, that seemed to fix it for awhile... but it got to where i lost left ch. 100% of the time.

I thought it might be some Capacitors on the board above the amps on the heat sink. They are 35V 3,300µF (uF) 25V 10,000µF (uF) and two more at other end, x2 35V 3,300µF (uF)

I replaced those with Nichcon Gold Tune caps 4,700uF 35V x3 and 35V 10,000uF and it fixed the no audio issue and sounds cleaner. And everything is working Great!!!!

Manuel Martín
said on
23.12.2011 02:07
Hi Janne, a great article, greetings from Spain.

First apologize for not knowing much English and I preferred to use a google for it.

A few months ago I got a Denon AVR 3300 with a similar problem you describe, just a bit of audio from time to time on FM, but when I select another font or any other audio mode the unit was silent.

After reviewing finding nothing, I read your article and I was overjoyed to think that there could be the solution, but it was not so, I removed the IC403, I cleaned all the connections and even a good connection I made sure the socket lifting but nothing has changed.

Then I took my time and went over all the solder connections of the cards, but no change

With all that did not improve anything, you hear very weak FM and more I press on IC403 changes nothing. I've seen the parts on the internet, but I'm not a good idea to spend money without really knowing the problem

Now I am thinking about lifting the socket and solder the chip directly to the motherboard, do you think that this could be a solucuón?

Best regards from Spain

said on
27.12.2011 21:03
Wow!!! I am grateful that I have not had any sound issues. My problem is that the darn thing wont power on, with remote or manual touch. Happened once before and we reset it. Now this won't even work. Anyone have any ideas?
said on
27.12.2011 21:27
Okay.. So we took it apart and sprayed some electronic cleaner on the inside at the switch and plugged it in. Turned right on!! Yea. Hope that we continue to be one of the lucky ones with no sound issues. If it does ever happen... I know where to come for help.
said on
04.01.2012 18:41
Great article, another AVR-3300 saved from the scrap pile. Thank you very much!!
Peter R
said on
05.01.2012 21:50
Wow so many AVR-3300 owners! Thanks for all the input on this thread. My unit has worked great for the past few yrs (picked it up on Criaglist for $100. in 2009), until recently one of the rear channels sound crackles and fades in and out and now is mostly just silent. It only seems to effect one rear channel as (the Left front, center and right front and right rear all sound great). Is this also a DSP issue and should I just start with taking out the DSP and clean all the contacts. I tried switching the speaker wire to the B rear/surround speaker connectors but does not seem to make a diff.

Finally, does anyone have any strong reommendations on a slightly newer AVR unit. I'm looking for something with 100 watts RMS or higher (ideally 110-120 watts) with clean sound, .07% THD or lower and with good bass mang. to control my HSU powered sub (50Hz, 60Hz, 70 Hz, 80 Hz, 90 Hz, etc). Does not have to be Denon. Will consider other brands such as NAD, Yamaha, Marantz, Integra, etc. just looking for a nice used higher end receiever under $250.
Buffalo, NY

said on
24.04.2012 19:25
I bought a Denon AVR 3300 for $25 (no remote though). I soldered 2 corners of the socket's pad (as described by you) and fixed the following problem:
"Sound only in stereo mode. The volume knob does not modify the volume (it only shows the volume on the LCD, but the actual volume remains the same). Once you try to change to any other audio settings, like Dolby, etc., or select another input, the volume cuts off. Interestingly, the sound will re-appear at the preset volume and input only in stereo mode, after you re-open the unit, from standby. If you again try to make any changes (except for volume that does not have any other effect than showing the volume level, without actually changing the audible volume) it will cut off. So this problem is reproducible. Again, the only time you get an audio output is in stereo mode, under the above circumstances. The final transistors (even if only for front L&R, don’t have any audio out on the other channels as the unit is in stereo anyway) look and hear (when working, see above) OK.
Hard reset does not change anything."

Thank you very much!

said on
02.05.2012 23:16
I was soooo close to throw my AVR3300 away!
But I found your page and now my Denon is back to life!
I use it since 12 years, and I plan to use it at least 12 more years.

Thanks a lot for this guide.

Chris (France)

said on
05.05.2012 17:18
awesome, i have had my denon for years, and it stopped working a while ago. i just taped my finger, pressed the IC403 against the bord with the taped finger. and it worked again. tyty.
said on
13.05.2012 23:38
Thanks, Janne, for a well-written article!

My AVR-3300, which has worked flawlessly for 12 years, lost all output about 3 weeks ago. I have the service manual, and spent hours troubleshooting everything I could think of. I was very close to retiring it when I found your article. Indeed, the IC403 socket had broken loose on two corners. I carefully resoldered it, re-installed the chip, and re-assembled the unit. Low and behold, I once again have a fully functional receiver.

Again, many thanks!
Ron (Tulsa, Oklahoma, USA)

said on
07.07.2012 06:31
Thanks for the wonderful article.
I have 1 small suggestion to add. My first denon 3300 I fixed this way, but of course its problem may have been different, but I would still consider the 3300 to have a manufacturing defect in that respect.
The transistors screwed to the heat sink on the top part, just under the top cover as it sits in the amp have no thermal compound or mica under them. I put those and reinstalled it and it worked for many months like a charm before I traded it off.
Now the current denon 3300 I got isn't working even after that so obviously its got a problem.
Thanks I plan to follow the troubleshooting and repair steps.
said on
14.01.2013 01:27
Hi Janne!

Thank you so much for this guide. My AVR-3300 stopped outputting audio about a year ago, after some searching on the internet i found your article. I used your guide to make the repairs and it's working fine.

Janne Ropponen
said on
16.02.2013 15:20
Hi guys! It's been fun and I never ever expected so many people would find help for their AVR-3300 here. Thank you so much for your kind comments and helpful tips over the years.

That being said, I finally moved on and retired my 3300. It was still working, but the sound quality was noticeable deteriorated and it would always take some time of "warming up" before the device would work without constant hissing and popping sounds. I guess I got my money's worth over the years: the 3300 was in use every day.

I'm also closing down the commenting system now that I don't have the 3300 anymore. Once again, thanks for reading and participating!

- Janne


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